The Bajaj (and all Vespas) should be transported on their wheels, not on the center or side stand, so that the scooter's shocks and springs absorb any jolts instead of bending the stand or the metal body. Get some flat strap webbing about 3 foot or so longer than the handle bars and tie small bowline loops in each end. Run the webbing strap around the hand grips in a manner that the
loops point to the front and the strap goes direct from hand grip to hand grip.
+ ----- +
If you don't like this homemade web strap, you can buy one as shown in the picture called a Canyon Dancer.
Put a used scooter tire or car tire at the front of the trailer and use tie downs to pull the front wheel into this spare tire, compressing the front shock/link slightly. The front wheel is going nowhere now.
Use tie downs on each side of the rear (the Bajaj rear seat handgrips are a good location), again compressing the shocks slightly. Now the rear wheel can't go anywhere. Basically your 4 tiedowns should now make a "v" going out from each end of the scooter.
It is ok to leave oil in the scoot as long as it is secure and can not fall onto on the battery side. Before tying the scoot down, all gas should be drained from the gas tank and the bike should then be run to drain all gas out of the carb as well.
You should have no problems if you do the above. I have trailered scoots using this method thousands of miles.
From time to time riders encounter symptoms they describe as "fuel starvation." Essentially, the scooter runs and is rideable but seems to have no power or lose power at higher speeds. Sometimes this actually is fuel starvation caused by a vacumm lock created in the gas tank. Please understand that the Chetak gas tank is not very high above the carboretur so there is very little gravity force to feed the carb, Almost any blockage or kinking of the fuel feed lines can cause this symptom. But, there can be many other causes - a bad spark plug cap, a bad CDI, and simple loose ground. The following list of checks can be performed to rule out various causes:
1. Check for a solid ground wire on back of the engine housing, if this ground
wire gets loose, inconsistent electrical performance results.
2. Get the right spark plug:
Champion PL7YC (OEM but impossible to find)
NGK BP7HS. (Easiest to find also as it is also used in small yamaha outboards)
3. Try replacing the OEM spark plug cap with an NGK resistor cap, the OEM sparkplug
cap has a history of problems that cause crappy running symptoms identical to
4. Replace the CDI, a "New Racing CDI" runs about $14.00. All cdi's do go bad over time.
5. Check the main fuse while you are at it. The bike will run with the fuse
blown but no headlight is usually the one indication that the fuse is blown. I
have dealt with lots of electrical problems related to this.
6. You may want to purchase a spark tester - a inexpensive device that fits
between cap and a ground and shows you a spark for every revolution. Inconsistent of spark
at high speeds could be
caused by 1-4.
1. If you ran out of gas immediately before the problems, this could indicate that you
just sucked every bit of debris and varnish into the fuel tap screen and the carb.
Clean the carb. Check the color of the float - white is good, brown is probably an indication
that the float leaks and is sitting in crappy gas all the time. Check all fuel line
connections to the carb and check for kinks in lines. Empty tank and fill with
clean (preferably ethanol free) gas (use fuel stabilizer religiously unless you
run the scoot every day). Blocked carb valve, carb jets, carb ports, or a
sinking carb float can all cause "fuel starvation symptoms."
2. Test fuel flow from fuel tap to carb. Close the petcock, pull the end of the
line off at the carb, open the petcock and watch for a vigorous flow of fuel
into a can. Move the petcock to the reserve and you should get the same
stream.If it is a small stream it is blocked at the fuel tap and you will need to
pull tap and clean it out.
3. Pull off the evap line from top of tank, blow it out to prevent any blockages
there. At high speeds, this line has been known to cause a vacuum lock in the
gas tank and prevent the gravity fed fuel flow at high speed.
1. Inspect your filer element, you may find oil in it from when the bike has
been lowered onto the battery side or you may find your missing gas - who knows?
But if there is stuff in there, then poor running will occur.
The only fuel filter are small screens attached to the fuel cock assembly:
If you suspect it's crudded up, you have to pull the tank. It's probably more
intimidating sounding than it really is though. There's very little to it.
Remove the small screw from the fuel cock handle, pull off the rubber grommit
around the fuel cock, remove bolts at the top of tank, lift tank up gently while
making sure the fuel cock is coming back through the hole. You should be able to
lift the tank up enough, getting the fuel cock rod out of the body with the fuel
line still attached. Tip the tank toward the back and then disconnect the fuel
line and let it hang. This is obviously best done with a pretty much empty tank.
Typically you would put your fuel cock on reserve and open the carb drain bolt
to let all the gas out. Since your reserve is suspected as not working, you'll
have more gas in the tank than you'd like and may need another method.
With the tank out, the fuel cock can be unscrewed and examined. Check the
screens for crud. The white screen filters do come off but can difficult.
If you're going through the effort of taking out the tank and cleaning
the fuel cock, clean your tank really well! Take a wire brush and get all the
paint off to the top around the fill hole area (that's what flakes into tanks in
the first place).