The Mordern Bajaj Chetak Rides One
 
Here is the answer I got from Bajaj when I asked them the same
question:

The rim around the headlight is snapped on. Grab is at the bottom
with your fingers and pull forward, it will snap off.

Then unbolt the mirrors, then remove 4 screws from the bottom of the
headset that hold the top 1/2 on. Now you can access the bulb from
the rear of the head light.

You can use a 55 watt in place of the 35 watt. They are available
at automotive stores. Take you old one with you. I'm not sure of
the numerical designation.

Regards,
Tech
www.BajajUSA.com 

 
The following instructions were found at 

http://www.benchmarkworks.com/articles/howto/brake.html 

How to Re-line Brake Shoes:
For Improved Stopping Ability
by Craig "Vech" Vechorik of Bench Mark Works LLC

The original molded brake linings of pre-1970 BMW motorcycles are not really up to the stopping requirements of today's traffic. While drum brakes can not be as effective as disk brakes, there is a simple, inexpensive way to make your vintage BMW stop better.

A modern brake lining can be substituted for the original, asbestos, molded brake shoes at a fraction of the cost of the OEM supplied linings. The lining material carries a manufactures, designation of AF 232 and is 5/32 of an inch thick. You need approximately fifteen inches to do the front or rear brake of any BMW motorcycle made from 1955 to 1969 (thirty inches of brake material to do the front and the rear brakes).

To reline brake shoes you have three choices:
1) You can buy the OEM molded shoes and the copper rivets from BMW at a higher cost and fight with setting the rivets (which requires a succession of specially shaped punch dies to obtain a proper seating).
2) You can buy the AF 232, use 1/8 diameter aluminum pop rivets and follow my simple how to instructions, that I supply with the material and do it yourself.
3) You can send your brake shoes to me and I'll do the job for you. (Order information at the bottom of this page.)

AF 232 Brake lining installation instructions:
The AF 232 lining is very easy to apply, cuts easily and has a higher friction coefficient than the original linings. As far as those miserable, expensive copper OEM rivets go, you can substitute long 1/8 inch aluminum pop rivets and use a hand pop riveter to sure the lining to the brake shoes. You also need a countersink tool which I'll tell you how to make.

Making the countersink tool
This is easy to make. Choose a dull, 1/4 inch drill bit. Wear eye protection! Use a bench grinder to grind the pointed tip off the bit. You want to shape the end of the bit like an end mill (as close to flat as you can get it by grinding). Use water to quench the bit during grinding so you don't overheat the bit which will cause the metal to lose tempter. After you have ground the end the bit flat, turn the bit around and grind the sides of the shank into a square shape so your T-handle tap wrench will be able to firmly hold the modified drill bit in its jaws.

Clamp your brake shoe in the jaws of a vise and use a metal scribe to scratch a line at each end of the old lining. These scribe marks will provide a reference point for when you measure how much AF 232 shoe material to cut.

Use an 1/8-inch diameter drill bit and a hand drill to drill out the old copper rivets from the lining side of the brake shoe. Take care that you hold the drill at the correct angle so the bit follows the rivet and doesn't wander off onto the aluminum part of the shoe. When all the rivets are out, the old shoe material falls right off.

Thoroughly clean the aluminum brake shoe and take particular care that the area covered by shoe material has nothing stuck to it that interferes with the new lining.

Lay the AF 232 on the cleaned brake shoe, and line end up with one of the scribe marks that you made on the aluminum shoe before you removed the old liner. Temporarily clamp the material to the shoe, using a pair of vise grip locking pliers. Be sure and hold the material down on the curved surface, and mark the AF 232 at the second mark that is scribed on the brake shoe, so you can make your cut at that point. Remove the vise grips,draw a complete line across the shoe material with an ink pen, and use a hack saw to cut the AF 232 to the desired length.

Lay the cut piece on the curved shoe, and using two pairs of vise grips, (one on each side of the hole in center of the shoe) clamp the material near the center of the shoe. Drill a 1/8-inch hole through the new shoe material, starting from the back side of the aluminum shoe, through the pre-existing hole in the aluminum shoe.

Use a single edge razor blade to trim the "fuzz" from around the edge of the hole, where the bit emerged through the new shoe material. Then, using the modified 1/4 drill bit that you ground off, carefully support the bit with one hand, and center the bit over the 1/8 hole. Use your other hand to turn the tap "T" handle in a clockwise direction, and countersink the AF 232 to a depth approximately 1/2 to 2/3 it's total thickness.


Start pop riveting at the center hole in the middle of the lining and work your way out to each end. This way, you insure the necessary tight fit of the lining to the shoe. After the first rivet is set, move your vise grips further out on the shoe, while holding the shoe material down tight, and reclaim the grips, and repeat the whole drilling, countersinking and riveting operation again.If the shoe material is a bit wide, or you have not riveted it on perfectly straight, don't despair. Clamp the shoe in a vise, on it's side and use a sharp box cutter to trim off the excess shoe material. The lining should be straight and perfectly flat against the brake shoe.Note the beveled edges on the top and bottom of the old shoe material. You must use a bench grinder to duplicate the bevel on the new lining. That is all there is to it, how does that grab you? Don't let your bad brakes stop you from enjoying your old motorcycle.Order material on-line:
You can click either of the following links to order brake lining on line through a secure server with your Visa, Discover, American Express or Master Card.


accessory 005A--AF232 brake shoe lining for improved stopping ability with Instructions you cut to fit all pre-1984 BMW motorcycles 15 inches one wheel 34 11 2 060 235
Or use the pre drilled factory linings-MODEL SPECIFIC, call for pricing

accessory 005B--rivet copper pop 3x10 brake lining one wheel pack of 18 rivets

Or send your brake shoes to Vech and he will reline them for you

Your name: _________________________________________

Your address:_______________________________________

____________________________________________________

City:_______________________________________________

State:____________________ Postal Code:_______________

Country:____________________________________________

Your email address:__________________________________


Enclosed are my brake shoes. Please re-line the brakes and return to me at a cost of $68.00 per wheel for labor, plus parts and return shipping (to be determined). All credit cards accepted.

Card number:___________________________________
Expiration date:_______
Name on card:__________________________________

Mail your order to:
Bench Mark Works LLC
3400 Earles Fork Road
Sturgis, MS 39769 USA
Questions?
Contact me, Craig Vechorik email vech@benchmarkworks.com
3400 Earles Fork Road
Sturgis MS 39769 USA



          DRILL                                 RIVET                                       CUT                                    BEVEL
 
If your Chetak runs fine do not mess with the air mixture screw on the carburetor. This is the other screw, that does not have a spring on it (that one is the idle screw).  The air mix screw is set at the factory.  Should you somehow end up messing with it, to find the proper setting first start with the screw bottomed out and then count complete revolutions as you back the screw out.  For my scoot, I found 1.5 turns, too rich (resulting in a dry black spark plug) and  2.0 turns was too lean.  For me, 1.8-1.9 turns was just right.
 
As written by bajajusa's former president:

Here is the proper and detailed procedure for adjusting
the valves on the Chetak or Legend. As I write this, I hear a voice
in my head telling me that "no good deed goes unpunished"

Valve clearance adjustments are made with the engine at room
temperature.

Remove the spark plug.

Remove the screws holding the plastic fan shroud and remove the fan
shroud. This exposes the flywheel and you will more easily be able to
remove and replace the valve adjust covers. The 2003 Legend and
Chetaks have a wrench in the tool kit for removing the valve adjust
covers, if you don't have the tool, a large adjustable will do, but
please! no pipe wrenches, pliers or other barbarian tools.

Put your finger over the spark plug hole and rotate the flywheel
clockwise. When you feel pressure building in the cylinder you will
know that the piston is coming up to it's compression stroke. This is
important because there are TWO Top Dead Centers. One is TDC on the
compression stroke and one is TDC on the exhaust stroke. If you pick
the wrong TDC, disaster will result. On the compression TDC both
valves are off of the cam. On the exhaust TDC, the exhaust valve is
being lifted by the cam.
Now you can use a soft probe to determine TDC (like a plastic straw)
or, since you have the shroud off, you can now see the lines on the
flywheel through a rectangular slot in the engine housing. There are
3 lines in the flywheel. The leftmost line is TDC the two to the
right indicate the two stages of spark advance used by the TRICS
system. This is more than you need to know. As long as you are
somewhere around TDC on the compression stroke, you will be able to
accurately adjust the valves. Even if the piston is half way up on
the compression stroke or halfway down on the power stroke, your
valves are still off of the cam and can be adjusted properly.

The first thing you want to do is check to see if your valves actually
need to have the clearance adjusted. The proper clearance between the
rocker arm and top of the valve stem is between .08 to .12mm. If you
have American size feeler gauges then it's .003 to .004". .003" is
about the thickness of 20 lb. bond copy paper. I tell you this, not
to suggest you use paper as a feeler gauge, but to give you an idea of
how fussy this clearance is. If you make the clearance too small, as
the engine heats up the valve will not seat fully causing leakage,
cause low compression and eventually burnt valves. If the clearance
is too much, the smooth engagement and release of the rocker to the
cam is defeated and the clatter you will hear is the rocker arms
trying to destroy themselves and the valve stems.

When checking valve clearance there are two measurements you must make
with the feeler gauges. The .003 must GO, the .004 must NOT GO. If
the .004 fits but is snug with a little drag that's OK, if the .003
fits but is snug, that's OK. The difference between a snug fit and
not going is around .0002" difference. (Take that .003" copy paper,
peel it apart into 3 separate .001" sheets. Now take one of those
sheets and peel it apart into 10 separate sheets, each sheet is now
.0001" thick, take just 2 of those sheets, that's the difference
between slip and snug.)

If the valves require adjustment, use a 9 mm box wrench (never an open
end wrench) and a small adjustable wrench (or better yet Valve
Adjusting Screw Holder P/N 37103153)
Loosen the 9mm nut just enough to be able to turn the adjuster screw
(while feeling a little drag on the adjuster). Hold the 9mm wrench
steady and turn the adjuster screw clockwise to reduce clearance and
counterclockwise to increase clearance. The adjust screw has a very
fine pitch, non the less, a 1/10 of a turn on the adjuster screw could
make the difference between GO and NO GO. Make very small
adjustments, re-tighten the 9mm nut and check the clearance. This
procedure requires a fine touch and patience, it may take several
tries before you get it right. When tighenting the 9mm nut, be sure
to prevent the adjuster screw from turning. Need I remind you that
this is a small nut and requires less torque than larger nuts?
Specifically, torque for this nut should be .9 to 1.0 kgm.

Make sure the "O" rings under the valve covers are in good condition
and seated properly. Since these covers are made of aluminum and have
fine threads, carefully thread it into the cylinder head by hand...
it's easy to cross the threads. Then tighten .5 to .9 kgm

Replace fan shroud. Tighten screws .6 to .8 kgm.

Put some anti-seize compound on the spark plug thread and install.
Tighten 2.5 to 3.0 kgm 

 

Can anybody suggest what is wrong with my '02 Chetak?
It starts fine.
It idles fine.
The idle crew is set at a known successful position.
The mixture screw is set at a known successful position.
New spark plug.
Good spark
Gas in the carburetor
But, when I twist the throttle there is no power and it stalls;
Or, when I twist the throttle it runs fine but within a few hundred
yards it stalls.
This has been an Intermittent problem for the past fe
w months
[1,500 mi.]
Other times I can go for days with out experiencing it [except that
with the throttle wide open it will sometimes buck like when you
step off your car's accelerator to pretend to your girl friend that
you are out of gas]. 

I replaced it with a Bajajusa coil.  But I wonder today if an Emgo universal coil might work?

http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/4/22/266/21828/ITEM/Emgo-Universal-Ignition-Coil.aspx 


 
The bajajusa manual advises the user to clean the air filter with a stoddard solvent.  What is a stoddard solvent?  Varsol - a kerosene like compoud available from Exxon - is a common stoddard solvent. But most petroleum based solvents will work, they just vary in flashpoint (e.g. flammability and explosiveness) (gasoline is high, kerosene is less). That is why bajajusa recommended a stoddard solvent. So if the backyard mechanic used gasoline and did not let the filter dry and the scooter exploded, they couldn't sue bajajusa. There are numerous commericial "foam filter" cleaners on the market that will work.
 
(1) Raise seat.
(2) Undo the "jeep" style latch at the front of the cowl.
(3) Pull cowl out slightly until the dowel pin is pulled out of its hole from the main body.
(4) Rotate the cowl up and back until hanger clears from its rest on the main body.
(5) At this time, there should only be the rear dowel pin and a wire connector connecting the cowl flasher light to the scoot. Disconnect the wire connector and then rotate rear dowel pin out of hole.
(5) Set the cowl down on protective surface to avoid scratching paint.

When re-installing the cowl, remember to re-connect the turn signal wire and insert the hanger into the hanger rest.
 
Speedometer cables have a threaded connection on each end. You can attach
the new one to the old one and pull it into place as you remove the
old one. 
 
Checked the Voltage Regulator (VR) ground on back of flywheel housing but all looked ok.
It grounds to one of its own mounting bolts. Then replaced the VR with the newer
model VR (2003+)(I had to drill 2 new bolt holes in the bracket and put in two
longer bolts as the newer model VR is thicker than the 2000 model. Plugged it
all back together. NO FUSE BLEW. Started it and it ran like a charm.

Learned also that the red/white wire ties into the VR circuit somewhere
not shown on the electrical wiring diagram. Something to be aware of.

Now, the battery is charging at about 13.5-14 volts.

Note: since I could not locate recommended replacement 20A 250V fuses, so I used 20A 32V
auto fuses ($2 for 4 at Radio Shack and at Autozone). This should be ok as this fuse should
blow with even lower resistance than the 250V fuse.
 
Following the successful introduction of the 2000 year model Chetak to the american roadways, bajajusa noted some improvements were needed.  These improvements were made to the 2003 model year:

New Upgraded Regulator/Rectifier. (U.S. demand for electric start and DC electricals was new to Bajaj).

2003 engines had their break-in mileage reduced to 500 miles due
to a new cylinder honing process Bajaj instituted.

Carburetors were set richer at the factory so we don't get the
complaints of hard starting and stalling.

All cables, except the throttle cable, were now stainless steel. Goodbye
constant adjustments!

Crash guard tubes were chromed and also shortened to make room for
Americans with big feet.

The rubber trim on the engine and battery cover cowls was glued on, not stuck on.


Mirrors were now better quality glass, larger diameter and further
apart so we could see behind us. 

The glovebox locks made so that the key can be removed when
either locked or unlocked.

Those ugly dots of red paint on the Chetak shifter were replaced with
the gear numbers stamped into the casting 

A rubber grommet was placed in the hole on the Chetak steering
column.

Chetak was given side grip handles for passengers.

Improved centerstand

Improved grips

Better paint w/ clear coat

Longer threads on oil drain bolt

More tools in tool kit including a jack

Seat can be latched in open position

Improved clutch/hub

Improved carb float shut off 

MOST IMPORTANT AND NOT UPGRADEABLE: 2mm larger driveshaft 





The Modern Bajaj Chetak Rides On The Modern Bajaj Chetak Rides On